Sunday, February 2, 2014

The Lautner Compound

Where do I start?  We stayed in a museum, in a piece of architectural history.  John Lautner studied under Lloyd Wright and was directly involved in the building of some of the Taliesin West buildings.  (Also, you know his chemosphere house, right?) So we toured Taliesin, immersed ourselves in Lloyd Wright's architecture, and then stayed in a place directly influenced by it.

Cool.

So this place is now called Hotel Lautner and here's a bit of its history, pulled from the wikipeeds:

Originally designed in 1947 as a planned community of over 100 buildings, storefronts and pools on 600 acres at Desert Hot Springs in the Coachella Valley, near Palm Springs, California. Lautner's client was the famous movie director Lucien Hubbard, the winner of the very first "Best Picture" Oscar for the silent movie "Wings". After building the first four-unit prototype and pool the project came to a halt and it was subsequently used for Hubbard's stars and starlets as a getaway from Los Angeles; it gradually fell into disuse and sat vacant for almost 20 yrs. After Hubbard's death in 1972 the 600 acres were subdivided and sold off; the pool property burnt down and was bought by the neighboring golf course to be rebuilt in a different design as their club house. The prototype units were purchased by a buyer from San Diego but they sat empty for another nine years until an interior designer renovated them and put in kitchens and baths, although at some point the kitchens and baths were destroyed and removed. This owner kept the property for almost twenty years until the year 2000, renting out the rooms as apartments. It was then sold to Steve Lowe, who briefly ran it as the Lautner Motel. After Lowe died in 2005 the property went through the courts as was finally put back on the market in late 2006, when designers Ryan Trowbridge and Tracy Beckmann purchased it in 2007 for less than $400,000. The couple spent the next three-and-a-half years renovating and restoring the property. Their efforts won the approval of the Lautner Foundation, who sanctioned its renaming as the Hotel Lautner, in honor of its designer. The hotel re-opened for business in September 2011.


Here's a shot looking toward the fire pit at night:


*sigh*

You can see lots more photos of the place on the Hotel Lautner website, but some of my favorites are below.

Caveats:  It is NOT in Palm Springs proper, but in Desert Palm Springs--a nothing "town" about 30 minutes outside of PS.  It is a not a hotel in the usual sense of the word, but more like four apartments sharing a small hot-tub-sized pool (which is NOT a hot tub, nosirree), BBQ grill, and fire pit.  Each apartment has its own kitchenette, cactus garden (with cool night-lighting), and private terrace.  The place is old, so not everything works reliably.  Our cactus-lighting was on the fritz and the fire pit could not be counted on.  (Which sucks when you're all circled around it, comfy with cocktails.)  These were pretty big bummers, and the owners were in contact and came over to replace gas tanks and run extension cords and stuff like that, but it became a hassle to keep contacting them and waiting for their arrival.  Still, waking up in a place like this was pretty special.  In a what-am-I-doing-wrong-that-I-don't-actually-LIVE-in-a-place-like-this? kind of way, but also in an appreciative, nice-to-stay-here-even-if-only-for-a-few-nights way.  And I didn't spill any red wine on any vintage anything, so this proves that I might be just about mature enough to have a nice joint like this IRL.


The mini soaking pool.



Our apartment, the "Bachelor Pad."






Cards Against Humanity was in full effect.



LOVE the light fixture above the bed.



All rooms are equipped with record players, so we had fun spinning while sipping.  Our television was hidden behind the painting at left, something I'd love to do in my real place.  But I guess we'd need an actual TV first.


Here a goofy-faced B shows off the Bachelor Pad, with a view of our private terrace.

I forgot to add that we had the run of the place, with all four rooms rented, and that was pretty sweet.  I can't imagine sharing the fire pit or pool with randoms, though I'm sure it's fine.  Still, if you stay here, line up some friends and take the whole place.  It's really the best way to go.

Taliesin West

Our vacation had a distinct architectural bent, highlighted by our visit to Taliesin West and confirmed by our staying at the Hotel Lautner in Desert Palm Springs.  You're probably aware that Taliesin West was Frank Lloyd Wright's winter home, and you can read more about it here.  Touring it and learning about its construction and the school that still exists there were well worth it.  I still have fond memories of touring the Lloyd Wright house in St. Louis, so seeing one of his big'uns in person was pretty damn cool.

After, we drove directly to Desert Palms, googling Lloyd Wright scandals along the way.  They glossed over all of this/stuff on the tour, and even now a quick internet search shows that there are plenty of Lloyd Wright loyalists who refuse to admit that he was kind of a shithead.  Good architecture does not have to come from a good person, people.  Ain't no denying his architectural contributions.


Here's B hopping through the grounds.






This is what a shooting cactus looks like.  I know because some lady got shooed away from it.  And then later, we all wished she had taken a barb to the face as she let her toddler disrespect low-lying architectural gems.  I was so annoyed by the mini-distraction ("mini" references the size of the child, the distraction itself was HUGE) during the tour that I meant to drop a line to the folks at T-West to tell them that toddlers shouldn't be allowed.  Hmm.  Still gotta do that.  I ain't trying to be a baby-hater, all I'm saying is mind yo' baby.








I love this grumpy hippo.  The look on his face tells wayward toddlers to bug off!

Jerome

I hadn't heard of it before our trip, but it seems that little ol' Jerome, AZ is popping up everywhere these days.  This former mining town is now known for being a super-haunted spot and is an easy drive from Scottsdale.  If you don't mind bright-red fonts and groovy background music, you can read more about Jerome here


The town is nestled like this, and you can see what is now the Grand Hotel (the big yellow-ish building at center-left) in this shot.  This used to be the hospital, where they couldn't contain all the bodies as people were dying from the Spanish flu.  We had lunch there and the creepy vibe could not be denied.  I was scared being in the bathroom alone.  *shudder*

Then we went to a rock shop nearby and the woman told us all about the ghostly experiences she'd had in Jerome.  Stuff like seeing demons in human form (or half-ass demonic attempts to pass as human), crossing spirits through to the other side, and a banana-curled lady spirit (picture Nellie Oleson) with an ire for men.  She kept going on and M and I were rapt (B was polite enough to stand there without pshaw-ing)... until she described WWII as "the war with the Jews" and later asked us to watch a YouTube movie that sounded like some New World Order shit.  Hmmm.  This should have discredited her accounts of spirits strangling her in the night, but it was too late.  She'd already scared the bejesus outta me and M.  It was a lights-on night back at the Valley Ho.



But anyway, here's a shot looking down on part of the city from the Grand Hotel.





We walked around Jerome a bit, trying to dispel our heebie-jeebies.  On our way out, we drove through the city center to the abandoned mine and the ghost town (not in a supernatural way, this time) next to it.  If you like busted out shit and rotting evidence of previous human settlement, then this is your spot.  Here are some photos:










And here I tried to capture the magical glow of the rocks in the distance.  But much like the big, bright stars that come out over the desert, it can really only be experienced in person.






Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art

M and I left ol' Pink Eye back at the Valley Ho-ser and hit up the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (or SMoCA... it rolls, no?  No.) to check out the James Turrell piece, Knight Rise.  (Funny that James Turrell is totally trending these days anyway due to his current retrospective at the LACMA.  Hipsters be lovin' Turrell.)  We went at dusk, so we could peep the piece with the changing light.

Here:





and here:



It was pretty cool.  Nice and peaceful, forcing you to really NOTICE.  Or just to relax and wait.  And watch.



M and I really loved the light play as you walked to the Turrell piece.  Here are some shots of how the light reflects off the prismatic bits on the glass walls.


Of course with a cactus.



M, ever the photographer, had some fun photographing me through the filter-box that Julianne Swartz had set up.

Speaking of Ms. Swartz, who I was unfamiliar with before, damn does that lady do some good art.  Her art is interactive, working multiple senses at once.  Now I'm listening, now I'm opening, now I'm moving something, now something's moving around me.  Now that's stimulation!  There's an element of discovery to what she does, as well.  Because how often do we adults really discover anything (besides having diabetes or lack of xmas bonuses) anymore?  It feels good.  M and I stood there, listening or watching, and moving around to listen or watch in a different way.  

This, this.  This is my favorite kind of art.  Julianne Swartz is a genius.  She deserves much more renown, methinks.






AZ Intro

I met up with B and our friend Monika in Arizona, of all places.  Random, and honestly we had not planned to be in AZ but it was convenient and sunny and good for road trippin' and so it ended up to be a vacation salvager.  Thanks be to Arizona!

We stayed at the Hotel Valley Ho in downtown Scottsdale, which is recommended.  They did a bang-up job renovating this old Scottsdale hotel, leaving enough of the atomic vibe, but making it comfortable and modern.  The bar scene was also much livelier than that at the hotel where we almost stayed, the similarly retro-modern Saguaro.

This was the view from our balcony the first morning in Arizona.  Nice, right?



We did our best in Scottsdale, which was definitely not our scene.  We were all excited to find a "speakeasy" cocktail bar, which had some rules posted outside, where we had to wait to be escorted in after calling on a private phone.  But when we got inside, the decor felt more Residence Inn than Milk & Honey (the OG modern speakeasy).  And the "mixologist" (yuck, yuck, quick calling them that!) who came to help us was all, like SHOUTING at us, O-M-G, about the COCKTAILS, you know, you guys, and was she, like, wait... is that one of the Arizona Cardinals...?  Yeah, it was gross.  And M's cocktail was bad but the cheer-ologist did comp us for it.  Still, no.  The best meal we had was at a Japanese joint in an outdoor mall run by a James Beard regional semi-finalist.  That was a treat!


B turned up in Scottsdale with not only a nasty cold, but a crusty pink eye full of--PINK EYE!  Yuck-O!  I found I was better at working switches and knobs with my elbows than I'd given myself credit for. (Dear Self, Add new skill to resume?)  And I was constantly wiping my hands with straight alcohol wipes, injection prep-style.  I am happy to report that due to my vigilance, the pink eye virus died right there at the Valley Ho-tel.  Or maybe B left a little in the rental car or perhaps in Jerome, AZ.  But know that we did not bring any crusty eyes to fancy Palm Springs.  Nuh-uh.





Here I am showing off my new jewelries, purchased at the super super swell Chief Dodge in Scottsdale.  Oh, to be head-to-toe in turquoise!


This is my new ring of agate from Montana, made by a Navajo artisan.


And look!  My perm is still in effect!  Must be that dry desert air.


Sunday, January 12, 2014

The Man With The Cans

Before I leave St. Louis, there's one more thing.

I met a man, he had many cans.  (He was not called Stan.)  He had a plan for the cans--on his wall, not in a van.  Many decades and countries do they span, these cans.  If you like graphic design, you will be a fan.












Fashion + Chess

One of the highlights of my trip to St. Louis was the current exhibition at the World Chess Hall of Fame, A Queen Within.  First of all, that says World.  So, FACE.  St. Louis is a global city, y'all!

No, but really, this exhibit could have been dropped right into the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, as is.  It's legit.  St. Louis is lucky to have an exhibit of this caliber on, so if you live there and you haven't seen it yet--go.  Really, GO.  It is stellar.

You can read more about the show here.  There is tons of McQueen, some Margiela and Viktor & Rolf and Iris Van Herpen, but also some newer/smaller/indie-er folks like Minju Kim (you know I love) and Vibskov and Sandra Backlund... which leads me to the fact that the whole thing was curated by a Swedish lady called Sofia Hedman.  Just more evidence that Swedes are everywhere.  Also also, the custom headpieces by Charlie Le Mindu are extraordinary.  I would have paid just to see them, honestly.  You can see some here






I am interested to see where the exhibit will go next, as I heard they're in talks for it to travel.  I hope more people can see it, as it's really great.

Besides all of this, it's a fine museum and the hall of fame part is good, too.  I wish I'd had more time to read about the inductees, but luckily there's a bit of that online, as well.

Scenes from St. Louis

I spent about 11 days in my hometown, which happened to be about 20 degrees F warmer than Stockholm at the time.  I'll take it!  It was a pretty relaxing time, though I was on the go a bunch.  There's never enough time when I'm home, but I got in some quality time with those I love.  Still, it was sad to go.

Here are some photos.



Hilde, the fat cat living in suburban luxury.




She's a darling, even if she's not a big snuggler--though I do force that issue, believe it.




I went with my parents to see that movie Jerusalem at the IMAX in the Science Center.  First, the Science Center is FREE!  But it also kinda sucks, so there's that.  There is a giant animatronic T. Rex and Brontosaurus scene happening, but after I deemed it un-Instagrammable (bad angles) I was bored.  The most exciting part was when my kitten heel got caught in the wonky hem of my coat and I nearly ate shit on the stairs in front of the T. Rex jam.  Talk about almost making myself extinct!  Har har!

Oh right, I was gearing up to slam that Jerusalem movie, though maybe my beef is actually with the whole IMAX/Omnimax/70 mm format.  (I mean, Benedict Cumberbatch did narrate Jerusalem so that counts for something.)  But yeah, initializing slam...  I had seen something on the IMAX years and years ago and remember thinking it was cool to be flying above the world or in outer space or whatever it was.  I just remember thinking 70 mm was pretty awesome.  Oh, how much I've wimped out in 20 years.

As we (and the rest of the grey hairs--it was a mid-day Tuesday showing) ascended to take our seats (they let you into the theater at the bottom), I already had a bad feeling.  That biz is steep.  Vertigo alert!    (How do the olds manage when my 38-year-old self can barely hang?)  We found our spot and not only did I feel like I was gonna fall out of my seat if I leaned over too far, but damn that screen is close-to-the-OSE.

The movie started and at the opening (swirling, no doubt) shot, my mom and I looked at each other with "oh shit" eyes and weak stomachs.  This was gonna be bad.  Real bad.  The movie kept going--zooming, spiraling, sweeping--and I wanted to leave.  But how to get down the row (past the other seniors) and navigate the steep stairs to get the hell out??  Attempting to leave could play out worse than me just sitting there with my eyes closed, thinking un-nauseating thoughts.  So I stayed.  But seriously, no one needs to be THAT close.  I am not that close to people in real-effing-life, why do I want to be that close on a screen?  This thing is trying to be realer than life, and I guess it is.  Also, the zooming and panning?  I could appreciate the beautiful scenery more if you could just leave the camera in place for a freaking minute so I could really take it all in.  Quit flying me around!  Yuck, yuck, barf.  The director's name is Daniel Ferguson and I know because I plan to write him a letter.  I am trying to be more eloquent than "Go fuck yourself", however.  I'll get there.


The best part of the IMAX day was visiting Uncle Leo at his home in Dogtown. His home is meticulous--everything tidy and in its place.  I wanted to snap more photos, but it was sorta dark in there.  Still, cool.









 My mom treated me to a pedicure.  Fancy times.



I took to ordering my coffee in the St. Louis Bread Co. drive through.  I mean, why should I have to exit my vehicle to get a cuppa?  (Ha!  I just remembered the garrulous guy working inside who kept going on about Jody Foster [with a bit of Streep bashing, even] while he made my CUP-paccino.)



 Lunch downtown with Maura and my mom.



 Katie brought some ancient photos to brunch one day.  Check out the babies below!  I think this was '91.  Man, I used to love that Nanette Lepore dress.



 Making cookies with the little ladies!  What a great night.



Aunt Helen tries glögg on Christmas day!  We had the cognac version.



HOME. FINALLY HOME.

Oh boy, it's been about 4 weeks living out of a suitcase.  I managed to come back to Stockholm for 2 days and swap out the big suitcase for a smaller one, but then it was back to a hotel room for another week.  I was in the United States for about 3 weeks to visit family and friends--in St. Louis for 11 days and in Arizona and California for another 8 days.  And then I spent the last week in Shanghai.  I'm going to try to get all caught up here today because there were some fantastic times.  B is in Tokyo now, so I plan to do things like re-organize closets and snuggle with Chi-kitty (on my lap now, good start) this week.  Oh and also the big fabric guy is in the office this week and there's a full-day workshop on Thursday and ugh ugh ugh... back to real WORK.  Gonna have to clear a path on my desk tomorrow morning.

But before I get started, I want to give a shout out to my immune system, which has not been having any of the viral trash that's been going around.  Cold viruses be frontin' to the left and right and my immune system be all like:  STEP, PLAYAS.

Seriously.  Byron turned up in Arizona with a killer cold and pink eye (pink eye!!), Marjan also had a douzy of a viral cough kicking, and I just got back from hack-a-minute Shanghai and feel (knock on wood) fine.  Surviving this shit on screwy sleep hours and germy planes has really been a wonder.  So props to you, my usually feeble immune system.  Can we go until at least Summer, please?